Branching Out by Rob McNeil
Staying curious, or ‘branching out,’ has richly rewarded me with many amazing experiences and equally amazing people over the years.
One of the few pieces that I found was a hefty cherry burl log. Having completed a large vase from a similar log years earlier, I was hopeful that I could wrestle an even larger vase from this gnarly specimen. Experience with flying shards of sharp cherry led me to hatchet off what I could to reveal more of what this piece had in store. At just over 26-inches tall and with a varying diameter of approximately 14-inches, the burl and bark inclusions on this piece were very evident. The log was quite heavy and posed some challenges getting between centers.
Initially, since the log was quite unbalanced, and with the speed down low, I used a D-Way Extreme Series 1-13/16 inch skew with short peeling cuts to produce a very rough shape. My goal was to establish a refined outside shape which I could then secure with a faceplate and steady rest to then raise the speed for the subsequent steps. For this project I donned my 3M half-face respirator with particle pre-filters over organic vapors cartridges, noise reducing headphones, safety glasses, and face shield. Being comfortable wearing appropriately fitted personal protective equipment for long periods of time is important to my health. I recommend taking the time to invest in a healthy you for your long-term enjoyment of woodturning.
Once the piece was secured to a faceplate and installed on the headstock, I focused on developing the final outside shape for the vase and established a short, flat area at the end for the steady rest. This step was critical as I cannot easily change the outside shape once I start hollowing and because a steady rest requires a flat consistent circumference to support the piece and eliminate vibration.
With the steady rest in place, I used a very long 5/8-inch drill bit to remove the center of the log all the way down to the desired inside (bottom) surface of the vase. This extra step creates space at the center for the hollowing system cutting assembly which helps reduce vibration, especially at significant depth.
Next, I used one of the many benefits of the Robust American Beauty, its tilt-away tailstock, to make room for the Lyle Jamieson hollowing system. This straightforward hollowing system incorporates a top-mounted laser to precisely dial in the desired wall-thickness and a
captured bar design with various size options to attack all the various angles and depths I will face with little or no vibration; both keys to hollow turning safely. Keeping my lathe on/off switch nearby is important as well, so I always locate the magnetic control box to my immediate vicinity.
Then comes the actual hollowing, which is meditative for me. Hollowing’s methodical repetitiveness offers lots of time to contemplate life’s mysteries all while occasionally adjusting and monitoring the wall-thickness laser guide and hollowing bar cutterhead angle, on rinse and repeat. This is the only time that I sit down on the job! Stopping for adjustments also provides time to empty accumulated wood shavings, and for a large piece there are a lot of shavings. This project, for instance, created wood shavings that densely filled an entire 30-gallon trash barrel!
Interestingly, when hollowing a log with bark inclusions that are recessed below the finished surface of my design, wood chips begin to escape through the hole created when the hollowing cutterhead develops the inside wall above the surface of the bark inclusion. This conveniently minimizes stoppages to empty bulk wood shavings.
Once I completed the hollowing, I was able to shape the throat area which had been initially supported by the steady rest. This required adjusting the steady rest to ride on the very last ¼-inch of rim to allow access to the previously untouched flat outside throat. Working to bring a final shape to the throat area, after many tedious hours invested to this point in the project, was quite nerve-wracking (despite the aforementioned meditative enjoyment during hollowing)! 😊
At this point, I had completed the turning, and the sanding and finishing could begin. Just
prior to sanding I used an old dental pick and compressed air to remove debris from the various worm holes and cavities in the burl and any remaining slivers of bark. Next, I used a small propane torch to burn the perimeter of the various cavities which provides a uniform contrast to the surrounding wood. For this piece I sanded up to 400-grit almost entirely by hand (because the open cavities do not allow for sanding safely with the lathe running). When I had advanced sanding up to 120-grit, I applied some wood dyes and then sanded them back to provide some interesting character to the vase. Dying the inside of the vase, since it can be seen through the open cavities and is often difficult to sand, goes a long way in hiding any surface imperfections left from the hollowing process. I finished this project with a few of coats of Watco’s Danish Oil. Cherry tends to darken over time into a wonderfully deep reddish brown color. I expect this will do the same.
My completed project:
Hollowed Cherry Burl Vase
(22.5-inches tall x 10-inch diameter)
I am proud to show Peter what has become of the wood that he so graciously donated. What other creations will our club produce that will be shared with Peter? As 2025 unfurls I encourage you to ‘branch-out’ and try something new. Making connections with other woodworkers is a rewarding experience. Volunteer to help with your local club, join the American Association of Woodturners (AAW) or attend a woodturning training or symposium. Reach out to another club member and try something that you’ve always wanted to do. And appreciate the wisdom shared by others. Thank you, Peter!